Why do I need to convert gauge at all?

Patterns are written for one specific stitches-per-inch. If your tension differs, following the printed cast-on number gives you a garment that is too big or too small. Converting keeps the finished width and length correct.

How is the new cast-on calculated?

The pattern cast-on implies a physical width: width = cast-on / pattern stitches-per-unit. The tool multiplies your stitches-per-unit by that width, which simplifies to new cast-on = original cast-on x (your gauge / pattern gauge).

Should I change needle size or just recalculate?

If you are off by only a few percent, blocking usually closes the gap and you can simply recalculate. If you are far off, change needle size first to get closer to the pattern fabric, since heavily recalculated stitch patterns can distort the design.

Why measure over 4 inches instead of 1 inch?

Counting over a larger swatch averages out small inconsistencies, so a 4-inch (10-cm) count is far more accurate than multiplying a 1-inch count. Always block the swatch before counting.

Does this work for crochet too?

Yes. The math is identical for crochet — just enter stitches and rows per unit for your hook and yarn. The tool does not care whether the loops were made with needles or a hook.

Knitting Gauge Converter & Stitch Calculator

Recalculate any knitting pattern to your own gauge

Gauge is the single most important number in a knitting pattern, and it is the one most likely to differ from knitter to knitter. This converter takes the gauge the pattern was written for and your actual measured gauge, then rescales the pattern’s stitch and row counts so your finished piece comes out the intended size — even when you are substituting a different yarn or knit at a naturally tighter or looser tension.

How it works

A pattern’s cast-on number is really a disguised measurement. If a pattern calls for 20 stitches over 4 inches and asks you to cast on 120, that 120 stitches represents a physical width of 120 / (20 / 4) = 24 inches. To keep that same 24-inch width at your gauge, you multiply your stitches-per-unit by the width:

new cast-on = original cast-on × (your gauge ÷ pattern gauge)
new rows    = original rows    × (your row gauge ÷ pattern row gauge)

The tool also compares your stitch gauge against the pattern’s. If your fabric is more than ~6% tighter it suggests going up a needle size; if more than ~6% looser, going down a size. Within that band, blocking will usually close the gap.

Tips and example

Pattern gauge 20 sts / 28 rows over 4 in; your gauge 22 sts / 30 rows over 4 in; pattern says cast on 120 and work 140 rows.

New cast-on = 120 × (22 ÷ 20) = 132 stitches
New rows = 140 × (30 ÷ 28) = 150 rows

Always block your swatch the same way you will block the finished garment before measuring — wool relaxes and grows, cotton barely moves, and an unblocked swatch will lie to you.