3D-printed plastic threads rarely fit a metal fastener if you model the nominal diameter directly, because FDM printers shrink internal holes through over-extrusion and the elephant-foot effect. This chart gives you the correct modelled hole size for each standard thread so the printed part actually accepts the bolt or screw.
How it works
For a metric coarse thread the tap-drill diameter is the nominal major diameter minus the thread pitch:
tap drill = major diameter - pitch
For M5 x 0.8 that is 5.0 - 0.8 = 4.2 mm. This leaves roughly 75 percent thread
engagement, the standard target that balances strength against the torque needed
to cut the thread.
Because an FDM hole prints smaller than modelled, the tool then adds your printer’s horizontal expansion to the tap-drill figure:
modelled hole = tap drill + horizontal expansion
So an M5 hole on a printer with 0.15 mm expansion is modelled at
4.2 + 0.15 = 4.35 mm.
Imperial UNC and UNF
Imperial threads do not use a simple major-minus-pitch rule, so the tool uses the published tap-drill table (for example 8-32 UNC = 3.51 mm, 1/4-20 UNC = 5.11 mm) and applies the same horizontal-expansion correction.
Tips
- For strong threads, print a plain hole and cut it with a real steel tap. Plastic taps cleanly when warm from printing.
- Prefer 0.12 to 0.16 mm layer height for any printed thread profile.
- If a printed thread is too tight, increase horizontal expansion by 0.05 mm and reprint. If it is too loose, decrease it.
All figures are computed locally in your browser from the standard pitch and tap-drill tables.