Are these temperatures exact?

They are consensus ranges from manufacturer datasheets and community testing, not exact figures for one specific spool. Every brand and color differs slightly, so start in the middle of the range and adjust based on a temperature tower or test print.

Why does PETG need a lower part-cooling fan than PLA?

PETG bonds between layers thermally and too much cooling weakens that bond, causing brittle, delaminating prints. PLA tolerates full cooling because it solidifies quickly and benefits from the sharper detail. The fan column reflects this difference.

When do I actually need an enclosure?

Materials with high shrinkage and warping tendency, like ABS, ASA, PC, and Nylon, need a stable warm chamber to avoid cracking and lifting. PLA and PETG print fine in open air. High-temp engineering plastics like PEEK require an actively heated enclosure.

What is a temperature tower?

A temperature tower is a calibration print where each section prints at a different nozzle temperature. After printing you inspect which section has the best layer adhesion, least stringing, and cleanest overhangs, then use that temperature. It is the fastest way to dial in a new filament.

Do I need a special nozzle for carbon-fiber filament?

Yes. Carbon-fiber, glass-fiber, and metal-fill filaments are abrasive and will wear out a standard brass nozzle quickly. Use a hardened steel or ruby-tipped nozzle. The notes column flags which materials are abrasive.

Nozzle Temperature by Material Lookup

A quick reference for the nozzle, bed, and enclosure temperatures of common and specialty FDM filaments. Search by name and copy a complete profile straight into your slicer.

How it works

This is a curated lookup table, not a formula — printing temperature is a material property set by the polymer’s melt behaviour, not something you calculate from geometry. Each profile lists:

Nozzle range — the hotend temperature window where the polymer flows cleanly
Bed range — the bed temperature that holds the first layer without warping
Enclosure — whether a warm, draft-free chamber is needed
Fan — the part-cooling fan setting, which trades surface detail against layer adhesion

The ranges come from manufacturer datasheets and broad community testing. They are deliberately ranges, because the right value depends on your specific spool, print speed, and ambient temperature.

Reading the fan column

The part-cooling fan is the most commonly misconfigured setting. PLA wants full cooling for crisp detail. PETG, ABS, ASA, Nylon, and PC need much less — too much airflow weakens the thermal bond between layers and produces brittle parts. The table gives a safe starting fan range per material.

Tips

Start mid-range, then run a temperature tower. Print one calibration tower stepping the nozzle temperature in 5 °C bands and pick the cleanest section.
Dry hygroscopic filaments. Nylon, PVA, PC, and TPU absorb moisture from the air, which causes stringing, popping, and weak layers regardless of temperature. Dry them before printing.
Use a hardened nozzle for abrasive blends. Any carbon-fiber, glass-fiber, or metal-fill filament will chew through a brass nozzle — switch to hardened steel or ruby.
Match the enclosure recommendation. Trying to print ABS or PC open-air is the most common cause of mid-print cracking and corner lift. This lookup runs entirely in your browser.